Nova Scotia

August 2019

We had been to Nova Scotia 20 years ago on our tandem bicycle and always wanted to go back when we had more time to see everything. It is a beautiful province of Canada. Many small narrow roads going through picturest fishing villages. It is sort of like going to England 40 years ago. The food is wonderful. We had seafood every night.

We flew into Portland Maine and rented a car. As there are currently no ferries from the US to Nova Scotia we drove to St. John New Brunswick and took the ferry from there over to Digby Nova Scotia across the Bay of Fundy. We drove all around Nova Scotia, took another ferry to Prince Edward Island and back through New Brunswick to Portland Maine. See the map below.

We have favorite things to do on vacation. One is to drive. We drove over 3000 miles. Another favorite is to hunt lighthouses. We have done that up the Caifornia coast, Oregon, Florida and arund Lake Michigan. You will see we found a lot of lighthouses this trip. We also like ice cream for lunch.

 

We spent the first two days in Maine. We stayed the first night in Freeport Maine. This is the home of L.L. Bean. Jan wanted a sweatshirt. There were way too many to choose from but she found one she liked. She will need it on the trip.

It is L.L. Bean's home store. It is huge, is open 24 hours a day and sells everything.

Bar Harbor Maine is a cute little town but it was crammed with tourists. We were one of them. Great ice cream however. We drove through Acadia National Park.

We followed old US 1 up the coast of Maine going through small fishing villages.

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We found our first lighthouse

We went into Canada over a small bridge onto Campobello Island. FDR had a summer home here. We then rode on two ferries to get to the Canadian mainland in New Brunswick.

Our rental car. A Kia Forte. A great little car.

Everywhere we went there were beautiful houses. Many with views of the water. There is water everywhere.

We stayed in St. John and then took a ferry across the Bay of Fundy to Nova Scotia. We landed in Digby.

The Bay of Fundy has the highest tides in the world. Some harbors would look normal at high tide and then at low tide the boats were sitting in the mud.

The Engish and the French fought many battles here in the 1600s and 1700s

We stayed the next night in Yarmouth. We had good food every night. Usually in a restaurant overlooking the water.

We followed the south coast around to Lunenburg visiting many small fishing villages

All throughout Nova Scotia and PEI on remote roads we would see tire marks. The kids, or maybe the adults, must have nothng better to do than leave black tire marks on the roads.

We stayed in this hotel in downtown Lunenburg. It was a short walk to the wharf and the ice cream store.

When we arrived in Lunenburg we took a whale watching tour. They said we saw 4 whales but Jan only saw three and Craig a different one. All were a long way away.

Lunenburg has a beautiful habor. It was our favorite town,.

We had dinner on a deck overlooking the harbor. Sea food of course.

Craig liked the stout beers

This is a real fishing village. They have a lot of memorials to lost boats and fishermen. Fishing was, and is, a tough job.

We visited the Fisheries Museum

The wharf was fun with a lot to see and music playing on the pier.

They were having a 3 day music festival. Sunday morning we went to a gospel concert in a tent on a hill above Lunenburg.

That afternoon we took a ride to Blue Rocks

Then to Mahone Bay. There are three chuches along the shore. A photo opertunity for everyone.

Peggy's Cove. It is the first real tourist destination we encountered. The tour buses had left but there were still alot of people there. It is a beautiful place. Right off a postcard.

The next day we drove north and along the southern shore of the Bay of Fundy

Here they have the highest tides in the world. We saw high tide so it didn't look that different. At 6 pm that afternoon the tide would have been out.

This light house is at Burntcoat.

That night we stayed in a 15 story Hampton Inn in downtown Halifax. We had a 9th floor corner room looking out over the harbor.

We followed the east shore road (east out of Halifax on the south shore). A small road with no traffic. There were scattered small fishing villages.

The next day we drove more small roads to the far southeastern tip of Nova Scotia to Louisbourg. On the far eastern edge out on a peninsula there was this lightnouse. One of our favorites.

It was cold and foggy.

We had to take another ferry to continue east.

The Canadians like to fly their flag

We drove the Cabot Trail around Cape Breton. It is a famous loop around the northeast point of Nova Scotia. Last time we did this I was a bit disappointed. I was disapointed again. It is pretty but not the motorcycle road everyone claims it is.

The next day we took the ferry to Prince Edward Islaand. They call it PEI

We stayed in Charlottetown in a 150 year old 5 star Inn. We were up on the third floor.

A great breakfast on the patio. The waitress told us it wss going to be a "scorcher" today. 80 degrees.

The next day we spent driving a loop around PEI

More lighthouses found

The island survives on tourists and farming. We kept thinking about how cold it must be in the winter. They must really enjoy the beautiful summers.

They fish for lobsters only short periods of time throughout the year to maintain the supply and size of the lobsters.

Most towns had a white church

Some with graveyards

There were Harleys everywhere on PEI

This was another of our favorite lighthouses. It is at Elmira PEI on the far northeast point. They had great ice cream.

On the north coast is the Prince Edward Island National Park. There are nice beaches, hiking trails and bike paths.

Prince Edward Island is the place they filmed the "Ann of Green Gables" movies. It is a big tourist draw here. This is the hotel they used. The Dalvay by the Sea Hotel.

Jan and I had stayed here 20 years ago when we rode our tandem bicycle around Nova Scotia and PEI. It brought back good memories.

We left PEI the next day taking the bridge to New Brunswick. It is a 9 mile long toll bridge. It cost only US $40. They claim it is the longest bridge in the world that crosses frozen water. It is cold here in the winter.

Back in New Brunswick we followed small back roads along the southern shore of the Bay of Fundy to St. John.

The high tides make all the rivers flow downstream at low tide and upstream in high tide. It is strange to see rivers running away from the sea.

This is Port Elgin. It is a French speaking town. This whole area was settled by the French.

We stayed in St. John. The next morning we followed the coast to St. Martins. It was foggy for awhile.

Another good ice cream shop was here

Another lighthouse. Many were hard to find. Some were out on points of land down dirt roads. Rental cars do well on dirt roads.

A popular tourist attraction is the Reversing Falls in St. John. The rapids go downstream at low tide and upstream at high tide. It was rainy and foggy. It was interesting but not all that impressive.

Low tide

High tide

We stayed the night in St. Andrews. It is a small village right on the USA border. We stayed in this old resort right out of the 40s.

The town was cute.

We drove the next day back to Freeport for the night and flew home the next morning.

We had connections through Baltimore and they were haqaving bad thunderstorms. We spent 3 hours sitting on the runway. We got to Phoenix at 1 am, rented a car and were home at 3 am.

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